Rancho de Chimayó

Posole.  Calabacitas.  Bizcochitos.  Sopaipillas.  These words make my mouth water and my spirit hunger for New Mexico, a land whose culture and cuisine embody both Mexican and Pueblo traditions.  The words also bring back fond memories of beautiful Sunday drives to a restaurant located about 25 miles north of Santa Fe, the Rancho de Chimayó.

The landscape on the way to the Rancho de Chimayó is almost worth the trip itself.  It is the stuff of a Georgia O’Keefe painting:  the stark Sangre de Cristo mountains standing sentinel to mesas, rock formations, and a high desert of rusts, browns, and golds.  To contemplate the scenery is to think of art, but it is also to be reminded that the land, the people, and the Rancho de Chimayó are steeped in history and tradition.

The restaurant began as the home of Hermenegildo M. Jaramillo, who built it ca. 1890.  Subsequent generations expanded the original three-room house into a sprawling hacienda.  In 1965, Hermenegildo’s grandson, Autoro and his wife, Florence, turned the 18-acre ranch into a restaurant.

Stepping inside the Rancho de Chimayó is like stepping into the home of a wealthy nineteenth century Hidalgo.  I am enthralled by the thick adobe walls, tiled floors, ceilings of vigas and latillas, corner fireplaces, family portraits, and abundant ristras.  

Yet, however much I love the décor, the food is always my main focus.   I study the menu of traditional New Mexican foods in great depth.  I mentally debate between the Carne Asada and the Sopaipilla Relleno.  I order a Margarita and guacamole and take more time go over descriptions.  Then, because it was my intention since the start, I choose the Chicken Enchiladas with Blue Corn Tortillas and Green Chile as my entre.  I love the nutty flavor of the blue corn tortillas combined with the fire of the green chiles, the sweetness of the tender chicken, and the sharpness of the cheese.  I also like the way they are prepared in New Mexico.

According to Rancho de Chimayó owner Florence Jaramillo, it is traditional to make enchiladas using three layered flat tortillas.  Even though it is a little more complicated to make enchiladas this way, the layering gives the dish an added depth and richness that can only be described as delicioso.

I no longer live in New Mexico, so Sunday drives to Chimayó are not a possibility.  Thanks to Florence Jaramillo, however, who gave me her family recipes, I can make the enchiladas at home.  And, as I cut into the cheesy layers, inhale the fragrance of the smoky green chile, and savor a bite of blue corn tortillas, I feel once again that I am in the Land of Enchantment.

Chicken Enchiladas with Blue Corn Tortillas and Green Chile

Makes 1 serving

3 5-inch blue corn tortillas

Oil, preferably canola or corn, to a depth of 1 inch

¼ cup finely shredded poached chicken breast

1 teaspoon minced white onion

½ cup Vegetarian Green Chile Sauce (recipe follows)

¼ cup cheddar cheese

Arrange several layers of paper towels near the stove.  Pour the oil into a skillet at least 6 inches in diameter.  Heat the oil until it ripples.

            With tongs, dip each tortilla into the hot oil.  In a matter of seconds, the tortilla will become limp.  Remove it immediately and drain it on the paper towels.  If you don’t act quickly enough, the tortilla will become crisp.  Repeat the process with the rest of the tortillas.

            Warm the chile sauce and the chicken.  To layer the ingredients, top the first tortilla with half of the chicken and onion, and one-third of the chile sauce and cheese.  Repeat for the second layer.  Top the stack with the third tortilla, then add the remaining chile sauce and sprinkle cheese over all.  Run the enchilada under a broiler until the cheese melts.  Serve piping hot.

Vegetarian Green Chile Sauce

Makes approximately 5 cups

4 cups water
2 cups chopped, roasted green chile
1 cup crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon diced onion
1 teaspoon garlic salt--add to taste
1 teaspoon vegetable base or use 4 cups vegetable stock

3 tablespoons corn starch dissolved in cool water

Combine all ingredients in stock pot except for corn starch.  Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for about 15 minutes.

Dissolve starch in about 1/4 cup water and pour into sauce, bringing to a boil.  The sauce should thicken lightly as it boils and your sauce is ready to serve.